Showing posts with label Belfast. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Belfast. Show all posts

Friday, 24 August 2007

Final Wilson Family Postcard from Belfast

Some people thought we were crazy going on holiday to Belfast. "Are you sure?" someone asked me with real concern in their voice a few days before we went.

Just for the record, it's worked out brilliantly for everyone. This city is rebuilding, and it's a good time to visit. Many people the English side of the water are prejudiced about Northern Ireland, so the queues are small. This week has turned round forty years of negative media Northern Ireland images for me.

People have been amazing. There's good and bad in everyone, everywhere, but along with a certain 'in your face' quality, we've seldom encountered such kindness and honesty elsewhere:
  1. "Was it safe?" people asked. When I lost my wallet containing cash and everything in a swimming pool in Lisburn, Ray (14), who found it, took it straight round to the police station, no ifs ands or buts. Any big city has its dangers, but there's a fundamental honesty about the place here you don't find everywhere.

  2. Hotel staff (in a no frills place) went out of their way to be friendly to the children, and help us out, way beyond the call of duty.

  3. When we had bought £40 of lunch for the children at Belfast Zoo, we realised they didn't take debit cards at the café till, and hadn't the cash to cover it. The lady at the till got us to write our address on the bill, and they'll send it when they get round to it.
And so we could continue. Everything I'd heard about the personal qualities of people here was borne out many times over. We've also had one or two amazing family meals out. The land is beautiful, and prices for everything are lower than in England.

We're all really glad we ignored the propaganda and enjoyed a fantastic holiday together in a beautiful place!

Wednesday, 22 August 2007

Mainstays of Moralism or Mavens of Mirth?

My new found suspicion that Belfast may be the secret Mecca of Merriment took a bit of a bashing yesterday when I encountered Exhibit A (Left) — a classic dance venue, the Floral Hall, looking even less inviting than some Churches I have encountered.

But soft! Soon afterwards I encountered Exhibit B (Right/ below) — Acorn Coach and Minibus Hire of County Antrim. Is a "Church Run" anything like what the Royal Navy calls a "Run Ashore"? Could you book a "Night Club Run" for a Church? Or a "Church Run" for a Night Club?

Serious Whimsy outbreak in East Belfast

Belfast has not historically been famous for vibrant irony and whimsy fun, so I was more than pleasantly surprised to find a chip shop (with a website) in the heart of Protestant East Belfast which could yet turn the city into a world centre of merriment.

The originator of the slogan, Sir Edward Carson, however, does not look like someone who would find this kind of thing amusing...

Saturday, 18 August 2007

Divis Flats, Falls Road, Sandy Row, Shankhill — redeeming some names from the curse of the past....

For as long as I can remember Belfast was a war zone. It seems incredible that people so decent, caring and pleasant should have descended into civil war for the best part of forty years. Belfast now is in full recovery, building everywhere to put behind it the legacy of the troubles. Thank God.

There's a particular theological challenge here. Jesus said people would know the genuineness of faith not by its content, or its conformity to some ideal specification, but by its fruits. How could religion bear such bitter fruit?

Dawkins, of course, would say it was religion wot done it. Dawkins has a point. Sometimes, as the Chief Rabbi tactfully puts it, people believe too much. But you don't have to know very much about the troubles to see that religious identity was only a background factor. Sir Edward Carson wasn't a religious leader, as such, nor were those who have driven this strife ever since. It's about far more than religion, and most religious people on all sides tried consistently to ameliorate the worst of it, rather than stoke it up. Anyway, the hypothesis that atheism somehow stops you being violent is ridiculous: most of the great Mass Murderers of the last century — Mao, Stalin, etc. — were, in fact, secularists.

As history begins to emerge from the headlines and slogans, here's one crude tentative hypothesis, overheard on the streets. It states that these nice people were let down catastrophically by their leaders, at all levels, including the highest echelons of the British government. Wilson, Heath and Callaghan governments committed their fair share of cock-ups and bad tactical calls, but were essentially carried along by forces beyond their ken, reacting tactically to something they didn't really understand, and couldn't think through strategically.

The shocking, culpable failure came in the late 80's when the UK government pulled up the draw bridge, pursuing illusory military solutions to a non-military problem. Thousands died whilst they sat on their spotty behinds, trying to sound hard for Fleet Street, throwing shedloads of money at increasingly ingenious security measures — anything except the one thing needful.

History awards surprising prizes. I was never keen on the Major government, but they turned things round. Often panned by Fleet Street as weak and vacillating, Major had the imagination and moral courage to see there was no military solution, and the problem wasn't going to go away unless he did something. Far from the line that "you can't talk to people like that" that played to the gallery at home but accomplished nothing, Major (and, eventually, Trimble) came to see that the people they really needed to talk to were the enemy. Until that happened nothing was going to change.

Well there's a tentative historical hypothesis, from which we learn...
  1. Wars on terrorism are, by definition, exercises in pointlessness and futility because they attack the symptom not the cause. When you win the hearts of people of goodwill, you win. There is no military solution — the lesson the British learnt at great cost in Kenya, Malaya, Cyprus, Aden, etc. etc., and Northern Ireland.

  2. Positive change happened here, and in South Africa, when the two sides sat down together and talked. The role of leaders is to bring people together. Any fool can cheerlead abusive songs from their own camp. It takes courage and real leadership to talk; and until someone develops that courage and leadership you are descending into a deep abyss, from which it will take years to emerge. If you feel the urge to walk out, turn it round now, and get listening, get talking.

  3. We have to find a more Christlike way of doing Christianity, for God's sake, for the peace and salvation of the world, for our own souls' good.

    St Paul's letters to Corinth dealt functionally with the bizarre phenomenon of schism among Christians — the body that rips itself apart for the sake of politics and being right, the Christian who fixes on a leader who comes to matter more than Christ. In Ephesians 2 he hits the heart of the matter — Christ has broken down every dividing wall of hostility that stands between people — race, or identity, or history. Who are we to rebuild them?

    Posture and manipulate as much as we will, in the end we have to sit down in peace as children of one heavenly Father. We are all laden with culture, expectation and identity. As we lay down those burdens for what they are, we will be free to discover each other the way God sees us, with perfect understanding and hope, and begin to live a bit of the life of the world to come now. That's how redemption works on the ground.
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